The Kentucky Elite Farm & Events Tour began with check-in and a Mimosa Brunch at the posh Griffin Gate Marriott Resort & Spa in Lexington, as guests picked up their tour badges, tote bags and gifts, and headed into a ballroom for a splendid brunch buffet and embarkation talk. Some were tired from travel woes, while others were rested and bright. But all were buzzing with excitement to begin our exciting weekend. I could tell it was going to be a very special group.

We promptly boarded the luxury charter bus following the embarkation talk and pulled out of the hotel at noon sharp. Our first stop: acclaimed Arabian trainer Martha Murdock.

What a beautiful and inspiration start to the tour it was. A group of staff cheerily greeted us at the entrance of the indoor arena, where fancy green shavings spilled out of its entrance. Inside were linen-clothed long tables facing the outside arena walls down both sides. We dished up fine southern food and found a seat.

Within the hour, several horses rode the perimeter of the arena as we watched them pass by right in front of our tables. National champions in western pleasure, country English pleasure, and side saddle capably put on a show with Martha astride in fine attire. Thwarting the general opinion of flighty Arabians were two child riders under 10 years old that put on a show with their hunter pleasure mounts, one diagnosed as severe ADHD and crediting his experience with Arabian horses as the one and only savior from his agonizing dehabilitation. Commentators of the presentation walked us through the conformation, versatility and form-to-function of this highly acclaimed group of Arabian horses.

I should note that one of the exciting, unpredictable elements of coordinating these tours is that even the staff has little idea of what each farm will come up with. More often that not, they’ve historically exceeded my wildest imaginations, completely caught up in hosting a group and presenting their program. Martha Murdock Training Stables was a tough standard to set at the beginning.

But on we went to one of Kentucky’s oldest standing traditions: Bourbon. Steeped in the old ways of high Southern society, fine bourbon has been a part of equine tradition for decades. Woodford Reserve Distillery was our next stop, with a beautiful ambience of old stone walls and buildings, flowering trees, rolling hills and green grass. We toured their distillery and learned how bourbon was made before being taken to the tasting room and gift shop where we enjoyed a sip of Woodford Reserve and an accompanying bourbon ball (dark chocolate infused with warm bourbon). Woodford Reserve bourbon is the exclusive brand of Churchill Downs’ famous Mint Juleps; therefore, they’re limited edition Kentucky Derby bottles were, of course, a big hit with our group. I’m still enjoying mine.

It wouldn’t be fair to not infuse a good amount of the Thoroughbred racing subculture into this Lexington-based horse tour. So we brought on local expert Shaun Washington to narrate a fascinating Historic Thoroughbred Farm Drive for us. You can’t help but be drawn to Shaun immediately. He is an African American robust guy with that southern black accent who is immensely respected in the local (and mostly closed-off) racing community of the upper ranks. He was raised by a wealthy racing family, Mr. and Mrs. Madden, who was known for hosting the most elaborate, Hollywood-studded Derby Parties of the year. Shaun entertained us for over an hour with the real stories of the local racing community, including the latest gossip, the “inner circle” news, the ’08 Derby contenders (eight days away at that point), and tidbit information that had us gasping on more than one occasion. He provided us with a glimpse into this surreal subculture like never before, as we drove by and through the “Millionaire’s Row” of Lexington/Versailles’ elite Thoroughbred racing estates.

Fittingly, we ended at our evening dinner host, Thoroughbred extraordinaire WinStar Farms, Inc. Located on several hundred acres off the scenic byway Pisgah Pike, we were quickly humbled into due appreciation for this rare opportunity by our tour host Bob Sweeney, who explained the magnitude of their generous hosting as a private mega farm who has never hosted an outside group before, is unable to offer public tours due to the business and nature of their operation, and has—not one, but—two horses running in the Kentucky Derby in just one week, and has dropped everything to host us tonight.

Tony Ciscell, WinStar Farm General Manager, hopped onto the bus as we pulled through the rod iron gates. I always pictured GM’s of these mega facilities to be extroverted, gregarious, and likely even cocky. Dressed in jeans, a casual button down and paddock boots, Tony was the antithesis of this stereotype. Confidence excuded his quiet demeanor, and he was a polite gentleman (when the bus driver would ask if she should turn here, his response was a quiet “Yes, Ma’am” every time). It took us 30 minutes just to drive the farm’s winding road system as he explained the organization of pastures, daily routine, different barns, etc… We ended at the stunning Stallion Barn, complete with dark cherry wood, chandeliers, an elaborate presentation area and a breeding area (sans a mounting dummy, as all Thoroughbred breeding is done live cover versus artifical insemination). After a tour of the barn, they presented each of their standing stallions to us in the presentation area, including , and perhaps their most recognizable stallion, the acclaimed and magnificent Tiznow, a two-time Breeders Cup winner and even more significant breeding stallion, in the upper eschalon 2% of Thoroughbred breeding stallions. The staff was down-to-earth, humorous and welcoming, as we maneuvered a photo shoot with each guest standing at Tiznow’s shoulder as he stood like a perfect gentleman the entire time—in spite of being bred 3 to 4 times a day.

We proceeded back onto the bus, rather starstruck, and headed to the “offices” where a beautiful spread of dinner, wine and gift bags awaited us. I cannot describe the beauty and graciousness we experienced, and would encourage you to visit the photo gallery for pictures. It was as pristine and Lexington-like as you could imagine. We enjoyed great company, great food and great wine as we felt ourselves get caught up in their Derby hopes and dreams with Colonel John and Court vision.

Somewhat in a daze, we boarded the bus to end our first day of the tour. It was hard to believe this was the first of three days. But what a beginning it was.

We added a special treat to the tour on Saturday morning through the connections of Shaun Washington that we left a bit earlier than scheduled for. After we secured parental approval, we took the group to yet another amazing Thoroughbred farm to watch a “live cover” (meaning, a natural breeding between a stallion and a mare). Shaun took the tour kids to see mares and foals on the misty and cool morning while we waited expectantly for the “occasion.” The handlers wore protective helmets and vests while the visiting mare was taken into a stock area for her valva to be cleaned and prepped, and then brought into the breeding area, a 30’x30’ open area comprised of deep, thick shavings, padded walls and windows. Her stallion, a huge 17 hand handsome grey, bounded into the room and, though excited, was lots more gentlemanly than what I anticipated I’d see. I’ve always heard that Thoroughbred live breedings were a somewhat violent occasion, but this one was pretty tame and educational.

We filed it into the interesting, educational category and boarded the bus for more fun—we were finally headed to Rolex.

Like always it was a zoo, especially on Cross Country Day. The Rolex Kentucky Three-Day Event is the highest level FEI competition in North America. It’s the NBA Finals for equine sports. Cross Country is considered its most exciting because spectators can walk the entire course (about 10 miles) and walk up to each of its more than __ wild obstables to be jumped. When horse/rider teams are jumping a clump of obstacles, they’re galloping down a fairway to the next set (being that it’s a timed event). The mental picture I’m painting with words is that if you aren’t watching with disbelief at what these teams are sailing over right before your eyes, you are hearing hooves pound, riders talking to thieir horses, horses breathing hard. It fills your senses, and is one of the most inspiring acts of horse “heart” I have ever seen. In fact, each year I visit, I’m instantly moved to tears when I watch that first horse and rider. It’s something to see to believe.

But I couldn’t gawk long—the “Rolex Dignitaries Luncheon” just for Destination Equus guests started in just an hour in the Kentucky Horse Park Theater.

Honorary speakers included John Nicholson, Executive Director of the Kentucky Horse Park; Bill Cooke, Director of the Kentucky Horse Park’s International Museum of the Horse; Holley Groshek, Director of Administration and Equine Relations for the 2010 World Equestrian Games Foundation; and John Long, Executive Director of the United States Equestrian Federation. A luncheon of this flavor introduced our tour guests to four of the most influential equine leadership organizations in the country (all located in Lexington), and hearing the greater woven story of how these organizations provide leadership and direction to the global equine community.

John Nicholson began the talk with the Kentucky Horse Park’s humble beginnings thirty years ago, and its progressive growth as the premier educational tool and horse show center of North America. Bill Cooke continued by talking about the natural addition of the International Museum of the Horse, now a Smithonian Instutite affiliate.

On the Kentucky Horse Park premises is the National Horse Center, home to dozens of equine organizations, including its largest, the United States Equestrian Federation, the official governing body for equestrian sports in the United States. John Long embellished on its functions for governance, safety, recognition and sports achievement. It was a grand effort by many, but largely USEF and the Kentucky Horse Park to eventually win the bid for the 2010 World Equestrian Games. Holley Groshek excited us with a heart-pounding World Games video and ticket and volunteer information. The first question asked afterward was, “Evie, are you going to do a tour around the World Games?” I said, “It depends on how close Holley and I become in the next twenty minutes!” We all laughed, but it sent our wheels turning together. We’ll see what we can come up with.

After a rousing applause of thanks to our guest speakers who took time out of the busiest day of the biggest event of the year in horse show world, we all snatched up gift certificates from tour sponsor Dover Saddlery before hitting the Cross Country course once again and then heading back to the bus for a much needed rest on our one-hour drive to Shelbyville. It was going to be a hoof-pounding, fast-paced evening in the Saddlebred Capital of the World.

Southern hospitality spilled out of the flower-lined, oak tree-studded southern plantation farm. Owner Hoppie Bennett, one of the most revered Saddlbred trainers in the world, let us tour his southern-style mansion that boasted of their passion and achievement and life in the world of the high-stepping horses on all three floors of the house. Family photos were interspersed with trophies, sentimental horse shoes, win photos, and memories of their most loved horses.

It was hard not to dilly-dally, but a beautiful Kentucky dinner was waiting for us as we dished up on fine china ware and found our seats at white linen tables, complete with after-dinner chocalate pieces in the shape of a Saddlebred horse at every setting.

“Hoppie is a hoot!” I heard several people say. I thought he was a fascinating dichotomy. He had a disarming way about him, a soothing voice, southern accent and dry humor as he talked about the horses being shown in front of us. At the same time, it was clear that years of this created a level of perfection. Or maybe it was his perfection that gave him years of this. Either way, as he walked us through what we were seeing with each horse, he’d occasionally switch topic without missing a beat to correct a minor flaw he’d seen in the horse or rider. It dawned on me we were simply witnesses to what likely was an everyday riding lesson to Hoppie. We were all dazzled by the pageantry and elegance of these high society horses, and yet perfectly at ease with their warmth and hospitality. We even whooped and hollered when we hear the words, “Rack ‘em!” Saddlebreds, Hackney ponies and Friesians all came from Shelbyville to show us their finest that night. Perhaps the highlight of the night was seeing An Heir About Her, a Saddlebred mare who was the winningnest three-gaited horse in the world since they’ve been keeping records. We were seeing the best of the best, while Hoppie explained the Saddlbred form-to-function right in front of us.

When dinner was finished, we scattered outside to witness the idyllic evening picture that this place was. The golden evening light accented these shiny chestnut horses. Yearlings galloped around a field. Mares and foals greeted us through the freshly painted white fence. The group was rather quiet, moved and swept away in the serene calmness of this place. You couldn’t hear much except for birds singing and people laughing somewhere in the distance. I think we all fell in love with Undulata Farm that night, and all it represented.

It was a happy, tired ride home that night, interrupted only by a rousing game of tour trivia by our always awake tour guide, Bob, who raffled away beautiful horse books donated by the tour’s publication sponsor, Horse Illustrated to the lucky few who qualified to “Trivia Finals.”

Hard to believe it was the end of the second day, but sleep called more than ever as we prepared for Day 3.

There is nothing quite as mesmerizing as standing on the rail at Keeneland Race Track (dubbed the “Country Club of Racetracks”) early in the morning, holding a coffee and letting your senses be carried away by the Thoroughbreds breezing on the track. Hearing the hooves pound and the horses breath. Feeling the pounding hooves go by. Smelling all the horse smells. I’ve been told this myself by local Lexingtonians, and after the experience decided to immediately include it in the tour. This made for yet an earlier morning than before, and I’m sure there were many that questioned priorities after they hit their snooze button! But I knew they’d change their mind soon.

How to describe Keeneland? It’s another world. It’s own world. Stone buildings covered with moss and ivy, 18th Century stone light posts that follow black paved roads. 200 year old oak trees providing nature’s canopy over it. And this is just the entrance.

Chandeliers, magnificent flower bouquets (changed daily), private rooms for dignitaries that most people never see or know about, stone tunnels from one end to the other, brick and stone walkways for people and permanent black rubber matting for horse paths (always spotless). It is something you’d find in high society Europe.

All this, and they only race two months out of a year!

We pulled in to get a coffee and Danish at the Keeneland Track Kitchen. Trainers and jockeys having breakfast greeted us warmly as we invaded their morning space. A captivating tour by our able guide took us into one of the dignitaries’ rooms that he said he’d never even been in himself for the 20+ years he’d been giving tours. It was a treat. We continued down a stone tunnel that ended at a grassy knoll on the track rail where he explained tidbits about the progressive leadership of this track to the racing community, starting with its polytrack surface, comprised of sand, carpet, rubber shreds and dirt. It never freezes, never floods and is never muddy. Most importantly, it is passing the test as a safer alternative to the traditional dirt tracks—the hottest discussion item in the Thoroughbred business centered around the recent string of Thoroughbred racing disasters. We toured the grandstand, skyboxes, betting centers, and the famous Yearling Sales Pavilion, where the Keeneland Sales bring in hundreds of millions of dollars to the racing community every October.

We aptly ended at the gift shop, snapped a few more pictures, and peeled our eyes away to board the bus for our last official stop of the tour.

PlayMor Farms is one of the leading Morgan Horse breeding and training programs in the country. They stand the famous Morgan stallion Mizrahi, and relocated from Oregon to Kentucky just two years ago. I’d met with this enthusiastic group from PlayMor several times, and knew we’d be in for a treat at our last stop.

Sure enough, we were dropped off at the entrance of their indoor arena, where a gourmet breakfast of Eggs Benedict, fresh fruit, croissants and rolls, and gourmet coffee and orange juice. A string trio in tuxes was greeting us with “My Old Kentucky Home,” and we all suddenly became painfully sentimental that the magical weekend was nearing its end.

Tables, food and the musicians were set up in the center of the arena, as horse after beautiful horse was presented to us either in-hand or under saddle. The 2006 World Champion Morgan Stallion “Mizrahi” was magnificent, breathtaking, with so much presence. National champions in driving, country pleasure and western pleasure were shown, along with a mare and her playful new colt by Mizrahi, playfully called “Little Man” (as Mizrahi is known as the Big Man). A swanky presentation of horses ended big… as in, 17 hands big. Jennifer Hazen, costumed in medieval armor, rode her self-trained black Friesian named Isaac out to awe the crowd. He performed a series of athletic tricks, and ended with a hoped-for photo session, as guests and he stood up on a box for nearly 45 minutes for pictures. It was a grand ending to a very grand weekend.

We said goodbye to a few of our guests, but most of us weren’t leaving Kentucky yet. With the Kentucky Derby in just 6 days, racing was on our minds. That evening, we were headed to none other than Churchill Downs.

On Sunday evening, April 25th, over forty of us got back on the bus and headed west on I-70 toward Louisville. We had an early morning the next day, so we left Lexington around 5:30pm for the hour drive to our hotel.

Our bus ride entertainment was a premiere viewing of the independent film, “First Saturday in May,” with our early release copy courtesy of WinStar Farm, who was featured in the film about five horse/trainer/jockey teams’ quest for the Kentucky Derby, and their victories and heartbreaks along the way. The movie just hit select theaters on Friday, so our viewing was extra special, and was the perfect prep for what we were about to see in the early morning hours ahead.

We arrived to a cold, rainy Louisville at 6pm to an unexpected test of patience checking in to the hotel and finding a place to eat at what was supposed to be a “street of dining options” that turned out only consisted of The Olive Garden. The group was so good to roll with it like they did, and I believe I safely speak for everyone when I say we were all retired to our rooms by 9pm that night!

Early to bed, early to rise. I will reveal some behind-the-scenes information right now. In my sleep, it hit me on a new level that Churchill Downs was going to be an absolute zoo the next morning. Derby horses arriving. Official beginning of Derby Week. Media galore. Vendors setting up. Traffic congestion. Security. Security. Security. I knew where to go, and the tour leader and I had gone over the details many times. But then again, they’d never given a tour during Derby Week—never—especially to a group our size. Sometime between 2am and 3am, I began to panic, probably because I was so tired.

So I got the photographer up and we headed out at 5:45am, 45 minutes ahead of the charter bus, and away we went. Believe me when I tell you that it took us the entire 45 minutes to wade through security and persuade them that a legitimate tour bus was arriving this morning (of all mornings). It was situated just as our bus turned right onto Central Avenue, the frontage road of the track.

Danita and I jumped on the bus as we continued to Gate 5 in the back barns area and pulled in—right behind the van with Big Brown! Let me just say it was absolute mayhem. Like New York City traffic that included barns, horses, grooms and media. I prayed that Becky, our trusty tour guide, was going to be there like she said she’d be, but there were so many people that I couldn’t make out anyone.

Like an angel, I saw someone frantically waving. It was her. She jumped on the bus to give us some quick instructions on how to stay out of the way on a day like today. We went from being the special people of the tour, to onlookers of something special that most people never get to experience. Deboarding quickly, we huddled together out of the way until Becky whisked us off. I looked over my shoulder and watched our amazing bus driver capably back the bus out of the gate, and breathed a quick prayer of thanks that so far this was going well. It is situations like these where 18 things could quickly go not as planned, so I was supremely thankful.

Our first stop was the track kitchen, where we loaded up on a typical track breakfast of bacon, eggs, biscuits and gravy, toast and black coffee. Like Keeneland, we sort of invaded the space of the trainers and jockeys, but as soon as they saw Becky, they received us warmly. I think our enthusiasm oozed out of us, and, like our other tour stops, people appreciated that. The kitchen was set up like a diner, with one particularly cool feature: one wall was glass from floor to ceiling and butted up (literally) against the track. So when horses breezed by on the outside rail, they were within a foot from your breakfast. Amazing.

The track was busy. Thirty or more horses were working at any given time. Most were unidentified, but those running in the Kentucky Oaks wore named pink saddle pads and those running in the Derby wore named gold saddle pads. We saw several of both, including BehindAtTheBar, Z Fortune, RecaptureTheGlory and Visionaire (trained by Michael Matz, trainer of the late legend Barbaro, who was standing on the rail watching his horse).

After breakfast, we headed to an outdoor nook next to the kitchen where we watched the horses breeze in front of us and listened to Derby and horse history by Becky.

Let’s talk for a moment about Becky. She was a tall, classy, beautiful lady in her sixties I’d guess. Generations of her family were passionate about Thoroughbred racing, and she even had a premiere block of seats that has been passed down for generations for the Kentucky Derby. A former schoolteacher, Becky commutes one hour several times a week to volunteer for Churchill Downs and the Kentucky Derby Museum. When asked if she misses teaching, there was no hesitancy. “Are you kidding me?,” she said. “I would rather be at the track any day of the week!” On Derby Day, Becky works the betting boxes. I just thought she was great, and handled the stress of the day perfectly poised.

It was now about 9:30am, and we headed toward the Kentucky Derby Museum, a shrine to the history and lore of the Kentucky Derby, and in my opinion one of the best museums in the country, whether you consider yourself a horse person or not. If you’re in Louisville, it’s a must-see.

A quick lunch location improvise had a grand buffet of sandwiches, chips, salad, deserts and drinks circling halfway around the large Churchill Downs flower planter, where we enjoyed the first rays of sun through clouds and lamented our last few minutes of a swirling weekend. Derby was in the air, and we were perhaps the only tourists that got to experience its behind-the-scenes pre-race preparation and excitement.

The bus pulled up all too soon and we lingered for one last photo in front of the Churchill Downs entrance. Before long, goodbyes and email addresses were being exchanged and we were all driving or flying our separate ways.

I’ve since talked with many guests, who even recently say they still think about that magical Kentucky weekend every day. Not surprising. Bluegrass that special kind of stays with you… for a lifetime.